Star Aesthetic Centre Durban
Ingredient

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is one of the most important molecules in the human body — a naturally occurring polysaccharide that keeps skin plump, joints cushioned, and eyes lubricated — and it is the most effective hydrating ingredient in skincare.

In brief

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally found in skin that holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it the most effective hydrating ingredient in skincare. It plumps skin instantly without feeling heavy or greasy.

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan — a long-chain sugar molecule — produced naturally by the body. It is found throughout the body, most abundantly in the skin, joints, and eyes, where its primary role is to retain moisture and maintain structural integrity. In skin, HA acts as a sponge, binding water to keep the dermis hydrated, plump, and elastic.

Production of hyaluronic acid in the body peaks in childhood and declines progressively with age. By your 40s, the skin retains significantly less moisture than it did at 20 — which is one of the key reasons skin loses volume, firmness, and the dewy quality associated with youth.

How different molecular weights work

Not all hyaluronic acid in skincare is the same — the size of the HA molecule determines where in the skin it acts. High molecular weight HA (large molecules) sits on the surface of the skin, forming a film that prevents moisture evaporation and creates an instant plumping effect. It gives that immediate 'my skin looks better' result after application.

Low molecular weight HA (small fragments) can penetrate deeper into the epidermis and upper dermis, providing deeper, longer-lasting hydration. The best HA serums and moisturisers combine multiple molecular weights to hydrate at every level. NeoStrata's HA Serum uses this multi-weight approach.

Topical HA vs injectable HA fillers

There is an important distinction between topical hyaluronic acid in serums and creams, and hyaluronic acid used in dermal fillers. Topical HA hydrates the skin — it cannot replace lost facial volume. Injectable HA fillers are cross-linked (chemically bonded) to remain stable in tissue, where they physically restore volume, lift, and contour.

Both have their role. Topical HA maintains daily skin hydration and plumpness. Filler treatments at Star Aesthetic Centre replace volume loss in areas like the cheeks, lips, tear troughs, and jawline that topical products cannot reach. Dr Bangalee uses premium HA fillers selected for specific treatment areas.

At Star Aesthetic Centre

Hyaluronic acid features across several products we stock at Star Aesthetic Centre — from NeoStrata Skin Active HA Serum to Dermaceutic Hyal Ceutic moisturiser. It also forms the basis of our dermal filler treatments. If you are unsure whether your skin needs hydration (topical HA) or volume restoration (injectable HA), our Niki skin assessment or a consultation with Dr Bangalee will clarify the right approach.

Frequently asked questions

Should I apply hyaluronic acid to wet or dry skin?

Apply HA serum to slightly damp skin — immediately after cleansing before your skin fully dries. HA works by drawing moisture from its environment; on damp skin, it binds to the water already present. On very dry skin in a dry environment (air-conditioned rooms), HA can pull moisture from the dermis instead — always follow with a moisturiser to seal it in.

Is hyaluronic acid good for oily skin?

Yes — it is ideal. HA is completely oil-free and lightweight, and it provides hydration without triggering excess oil production. Many people with oily skin skip moisturiser thinking their skin doesn't need hydration — but dehydrated oily skin often produces more oil to compensate. HA provides the hydration without the heaviness.

Can I use hyaluronic acid every day?

Yes, twice daily — morning and evening — is ideal. It is one of the gentlest and most universally tolerated skincare ingredients. There is no maximum frequency, and it does not cause sensitivity or photosensitivity.

Related terms

Not sure which products are right for you?

Niki can conduct a 3-minute voice skin assessment and recommend the right brand, products, and regime for your skin specifically.

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Ready for a clinical assessment?

Book a consultation with Dr. Rajeev Bangalee (MBBCh) for a medical-grade skin evaluation and personalised treatment plan.

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