What is collagen?
Collagen is a fibrous protein that forms the scaffolding of the dermis — the deeper layer of skin beneath the epidermis. It provides tensile strength (resistance to stretching), firmness, and volume. Working alongside elastin (which gives skin its spring and ability to snap back after movement) and hyaluronic acid (which keeps the dermis hydrated), collagen determines the overall structure, density, and youthfulness of skin.
There are 28 types of collagen in the human body. In skin, Types I and III are most relevant — Type I is the primary structural collagen in the dermis, and Type III (reticular collagen) provides elasticity and is the first type produced in wound healing. Both are manufactured by cells called fibroblasts.
How and why collagen declines
Collagen production by skin fibroblasts peaks in early adulthood and declines at approximately 1% per year from the mid-20s. By the 50s and 60s, the dermis is significantly thinner, less dense, and less structured — which is why skin loses firmness, develops wrinkles, and appears to sag. Women experience an accelerated collagen loss of approximately 30% in the first five years after menopause due to the drop in oestrogen.
UV radiation is the most damaging external cause of collagen loss — more so than any other lifestyle factor. UVA penetrates the dermis and activates enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that actively degrade existing collagen fibres. This 'photoageing' is why sun-protected skin in its 60s can look dramatically different to sun-exposed skin of the same age. In Durban's UV environment, daily broad-spectrum SPF 50+ is the most effective single collagen-preservation strategy available.
Rebuilding collagen — what actually works
Several skincare ingredients and clinical treatments have demonstrated evidence for collagen stimulation. Retinol (vitamin A) is the most evidence-backed topical ingredient — it directly stimulates fibroblasts and inhibits the MMP enzymes that break collagen down. Vitamin C is a required cofactor for the enzymes that crosslink and stabilise new collagen fibres. Peptides signal fibroblasts to produce more collagen.
Clinical treatments provide the most significant collagen stimulus. Microneedling (Dermapen) creates controlled micro-injuries that trigger a wound-healing response and substantial new collagen production over 4–6 weeks per session. Chemical peels stimulate cell renewal and fibroblast activity. Profhilo and injectable biostimulators directly trigger collagen and elastin production in the dermis. The most effective anti-ageing regimes combine daily SPF + retinol (to protect and build) with periodic clinical treatments (to accelerate).