What is a chemical peel?
Chemical peels use acids — most commonly glycolic, lactic, mandelic, trichloroacetic (TCA), or phenol — at clinical concentrations to deliberately and precisely remove the outer layers of skin. The depth of the peel determines which skin concerns it addresses: superficial peels exfoliate the epidermis (surface), medium peels reach into the upper dermis, and deep peels (rarely used in modern aesthetic practice) penetrate further.
The peeling process stimulates the body's natural wound-healing response, triggering a surge of collagen production, accelerated cell renewal, and normalisation of melanin distribution. The results are a combination of immediate brightness (from exfoliation) and longer-term improvement in texture, tone, and firmness (from the biological healing response).
Types of chemical peels
Superficial peels (glycolic 20–50%, lactic, mandelic) typically require little downtime. Skin may look slightly flushed for a day and feels smoother within a few days. They are ideal for maintenance, mild pigmentation, dullness, and acne-prone skin. A series of 4–6 peels spaced 2–4 weeks apart is the standard protocol.
Medium-depth peels (higher-strength TCA, Cosmelan) produce visible peeling over 5–10 days. They treat more significant pigmentation, acne scarring, sun damage, and fine lines. The Cosmelan depigmentation peel — offered at Star Aesthetic Centre — is specifically designed for melasma and stubborn hyperpigmentation, combining an in-clinic application with a home maintenance protocol.
What to expect before, during, and after
Pre-peel preparation typically includes stopping retinol and exfoliating acids 3–5 days before treatment, and avoiding sun exposure. During the peel application, you will feel tingling or a mild burning sensation — this is normal and indicates the acid is active. The peel is neutralised and removed after the appropriate contact time.
Post-peel, skin may be red, tight, and flaky for several days depending on peel depth. It is critical not to pick or force the peeling skin, as this risks scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — especially important for Fitzpatrick Type III–VI skin. Heliocare 360° SPF 50+ is mandatory every day during recovery and ongoing.