What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane and belongs to the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family of chemical exfoliants. Unlike physical exfoliants (scrubs, brushes), glycolic acid works chemically by loosening the desmosomes — the glue-like bonds between dead skin cells — so they shed naturally rather than building up on the surface.
The result is skin that looks and feels smoother, brighter, and more refined almost immediately after use. Over consistent weeks of use, glycolic acid also stimulates fibroblasts in the dermis to produce collagen, adds anti-ageing benefits beyond simple exfoliation.
Concentrations and how to start
Glycolic acid in skincare ranges from 5–10% in over-the-counter products to 20–70% in clinical peels. Home-use products (like NeoStrata's Clarify and Resurface ranges) typically work between 8–12% — effective for daily or every-other-day exfoliation without risk of over-exfoliation. Clinical peels at Star Aesthetic Centre use higher concentrations for deeper resurfacing under controlled conditions.
If you are new to glycolic acid, start with a lower concentration once or twice a week and build up frequency. Signs of over-use include persistent redness, flaking, and a tight feeling that doesn't resolve — scale back if this occurs. Always use SPF the following morning: exfoliated skin is more sensitive to UV radiation.
Glycolic acid for South African skin
Glycolic acid is excellent for treating the dull, congested, or uneven skin that results from South Africa's intense UV exposure. It is also effective for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — the dark marks that remain after acne heals — by accelerating the shedding of pigmented surface cells.
However, for Fitzpatrick Type IV–VI skin (olive to dark), approach glycolic acid with care. Darker skin tones are more sensitive to over-exfoliation, which can paradoxically trigger more pigmentation through post-inflammatory response. Start at a lower concentration, less frequently, and always pair with SPF 50+. For sensitive darker skin, a PHA (polyhydroxy acid) such as NeoStrata's Restore range offers gentler exfoliation with less risk.