Skincare & Treatments Glossary

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that treats acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation simultaneously. It is one of the few active ingredients proven safe during pregnancy and safe for all skin tones.

Botox® is the registered brand name of botulinum toxin type A manufactured by Allergan (AbbVie). It is the product used to perform Anti-Wrinkle Treatments — temporarily relaxing facial muscles to smooth expression lines. Botox® is the brand; Anti-Wrinkle Treatment is the service.

Botulinum toxin (commonly called Botox) is a purified protein that temporarily relaxes specific facial muscles to smooth expression lines. Injected by a trained practitioner, it produces natural-looking results within days and lasts 3–4 months.

Ceramides are lipid molecules that form the mortar between skin cells, keeping moisture in and irritants out. They are the foundation of a healthy skin barrier — and the first thing that depletes when skin becomes dry, sensitive, or reactive.

A chemical peel uses an acid solution to remove the outer layers of skin, accelerating cell renewal to reveal clearer, smoother skin. Peels treat acne, pigmentation, fine lines, and dull texture — with results that home products cannot replicate.

Collagen is the structural protein that gives skin its firmness, elasticity, and volume. Production declines from our mid-20s — the primary biological reason skin loses fullness and develops lines over time. Most anti-ageing treatments target collagen restoration.

Dermaceutic is a French dermatologist-developed skincare brand offering clinical-grade active formulations for home use between professional treatments. Known for its protocol approach — matching home products to in-practice peels and treatments.

Dermal fillers are injectable gels — most commonly made from hyaluronic acid — that restore lost facial volume, smooth deep lines, and enhance contours. Results are immediate, natural-looking, and reversible.

Dynamic wrinkles are lines caused by repeated facial muscle movement — forehead lines, frown lines, and crow's feet are the most common. They are the primary target of Anti-Wrinkle Treatment using botulinum toxin.

Fernblock is a standardised extract of the fern Polypodium leucotomos, taken orally or applied topically to reduce UV damage from the inside. It is the active behind the Heliocare range and is used as a support to sunscreen, never as a replacement for it.

Ferulic acid is a plant antioxidant used mainly to stabilise vitamin C and vitamin E and make them work harder. It is the third ingredient in the classic C E Ferulic formulation and the reason that combination outperforms vitamin C alone.

The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin into six types based on its response to UV radiation — from Type I (very fair, always burns) to Type VI (very dark, never burns). It is the most widely used clinical tool for predicting how skin responds to treatments, ingredients, and sun exposure.

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane that exfoliates by dissolving the bonds holding dead skin cells together. It is the gold standard AHA for resurfacing dull, uneven, or congested skin.

Heliocare is a premium sun protection brand from Cantabria Labs offering advanced broad-spectrum SPF 50+ formulations. It is the recommended daily sunscreen at Star Aesthetic Centre for all skin types, post-procedure care, and hyperpigmentation management.

Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally found in skin that holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water, making it the most effective hydrating ingredient in skincare. It plumps skin instantly without feeling heavy or greasy.

Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of areas of skin caused by excess melanin production. It includes sun spots, post-inflammatory marks, and melasma — all common in South Africa — and each type requires a different treatment approach.

ISDIN is a Spanish dermatological pharmaceutical company offering advanced sun protection, skin health, and body care. Known for Eryfotona SPF formulations with DNA-repair enzymes and Isdinceutics active serums — stocked at Star Aesthetic Centre.

Kojic acid is a potent, fungus-derived tyrosinase inhibitor used to fade hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and melasma. It is one of the more effective brightening actives available, though it can be more irritating than gentler alternatives like niacinamide or azelaic acid.

Melanin is the natural pigment that gives skin, hair, and eyes their colour. It is produced by cells called melanocytes in response to UV exposure, hormones, and inflammation — and overproduction of melanin is what causes hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and melasma.

Melanocytes are the specialised cells in the skin that produce melanin, the pigment responsible for skin, hair, and eye colour. Located in the deepest layer of the epidermis, they respond to UV exposure, hormones, and inflammation by producing more or less melanin.

Melasma is a skin condition causing symmetrical brown or grey-brown patches, most commonly on the cheeks, forehead, and upper lip. It is triggered by hormones and dramatically worsened by sun exposure — making it one of the most common and challenging pigmentation concerns in South Africa.

Mesoestetic is a Spanish pharmaceutical skincare brand best known for the Cosmelan® depigmentation system — one of the world's most effective professional treatments for melasma and stubborn hyperpigmentation.

Microneedling uses a device with fine needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin, triggering the body's natural repair process and stimulating new collagen and elastin production. It treats acne scarring, skin texture, pores, and early laxity.

NeoStrata is a pharmaceutical-grade skincare brand founded by the scientists who first patented clinical applications of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs). Its glycolic acid and PHA formulations treat ageing, pigmentation, acne, and rough skin texture with strong clinical backing.

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a multitasking skincare ingredient that reduces pore appearance, controls excess oil, fades pigmentation, and strengthens the skin barrier — all with exceptional tolerability across skin types.

Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) is a treatment that uses a concentrated portion of your own blood — rich in growth factors — to accelerate healing and stimulate collagen production. It is often combined with microneedling for enhanced results in scarring and pigmentation.

Polyhydroxy acids are next-generation exfoliating acids with larger molecules that penetrate more slowly and gently than AHAs. They suit sensitive, rosacea-prone and reactive skin that cannot tolerate glycolic acid, and they hydrate as they exfoliate.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is the dark mark left on skin after any injury or inflammation — most commonly from acne, cuts, or burns. It is significantly more pronounced and long-lasting in medium to dark skin tones and requires a carefully managed approach to treat.

Retinaldehyde sits between retinol and prescription tretinoin in the vitamin A family. It converts to active retinoic acid in a single step rather than two, making it markedly more potent than retinol while remaining better tolerated than prescription strength.

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and the most clinically proven anti-ageing ingredient in skincare. It accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and fades dark spots over consistent use.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that dissolves oil, so it can travel into the pore itself rather than working only on the surface. It is the single most useful ingredient for blackheads, congestion and oily, breakout-prone skin.

SkinCeuticals is a medical-grade skincare brand backed by decades of peer-reviewed research. Known for vitamin C serums, antioxidants, retinol, and active treatments — formulated at clinical concentrations and available exclusively through authorised medical practices.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) measures how well a sunscreen protects against UVB rays. In South Africa, daily SPF 50+ is essential — UV radiation is extreme year-round, and unprotected skin ages faster and faces significantly higher risks of pigmentation and skin cancer.

Static wrinkles are lines present at rest — visible even when the face is completely relaxed. They result from volume loss, collagen breakdown, and established skin laxity, and are best treated with dermal fillers, peels, or resurfacing rather than botulinum toxin.

Tranexamic acid is a brightening ingredient particularly effective for melasma. Unlike most brightening actives, it targets a blood-vessel-related inflammatory pathway that drives melasma, not just melanin production directly.

A tyrosinase inhibitor is a skincare ingredient that slows melanin production by blocking tyrosinase, the key enzyme melanocytes use to make pigment. Azelaic acid, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C are common tyrosinase inhibitors used in pigmentation treatment.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is a powerful antioxidant that brightens skin, fades dark spots, and stimulates collagen production. It is the best-studied ingredient for preventing and reversing UV-related pigmentation — essential in South Africa's high-UV environment.

A Wood's lamp is a handheld ultraviolet light device used during a skin consultation to reveal pigmentation depth and other skin changes invisible to the naked eye under normal light — helping guide an accurate diagnosis and treatment plan.